My car feels sluggish too right now, just doesn't have the launch it used to when I had stage 1 on it. I have done some mods to it and had it to the dealer. They replaced the wga on it and my boost levels have been much better but it still doesn't feel like it used to. Feels like timing is being pulled and I have checked it out for all boost leaks and whatnot. I may look into the tps because my throttle has been takin off before to get the intake powdercoated. It was then that my problems seemed to start. Thanks for the heads up gonna check this out for sure. Hopefully this will cure my slow car lol.

 

A wire on my TPS went once already. I wouldn't be surprised if it's going again right now (They really should have replaced the whole thing). I put the car in Neutral right at WOT, it takes a while for the RPM's to come down when they should go down immediately. Too lazy to convince Dodge that it's busted again right now.

The most annoying is that the engagement between gears being very laggy causing jolts (not the clutch, it's the throttle), and a sense that there's no linear acceleration off the line. It feels like power spikes on and off kinda like throttle ABS. When my friend's Honda Accord 4 banger feels more peppy than my SRT-4, I know something's wrong.

 

I got the harness and everything replaced about 3 weeks ago and no it is bad again!! When the new stuff was first on it was much faster as well. I was holding about 14-15 psi in stock trim instead of 12-13.

 

I swear my car feels slower too... ive had it for almost 2 months now... and i swear it doesnt have the same UMPH as it did...

mine is an 05' with 2600 miles... think its the same thing?

I still boost 14PSI

Any suggestions

 

Who knows... How is your throttle response? Does it not let off the second you release the gas? Does it ever stick or go up to around 3K RPMS's when you are not stepping on the gas or does it ever idle up and down when you are at a stop? If any of these are happening it could possibly be a problem.

 

Who knows... How is your throttle response? Does it not let off the second you release the gas? Does it ever stick or go up to around 3K RPMS's when you are not stepping on the gas or does it ever idle up and down when you are at a stop? If any of these are happening it could possibly be a problem.

Im at work right now... on my lunch break im going to double check the throttle response...

but i dont have any idle issues...

i swear it just doesnt feel as fast as it did... even another friend with an SRT4 said it was kinda slow...

You think if I call the dealership and tell them i think the TPS is going out or something is wrong because my car is slow they'll look at it or tell me no cuz i dont have a CEL on or anything

 

Try resetting your ECU and see if that helps and/or check for boost leaks.

You don't have to throw a CEL to have that stuff go wrong in the car.

 

We need a sticky of common problems.

TPS seems to be one of them

 

Try resetting your ECU and see if that helps and/or check for boost leaks.

You don't have to throw a CEL to have that stuff go wrong in the car.

I dont have boost leaks.. tested already.

do I reset the ecu just be disconnecting the battery?

 

the worst part is that if the car isnt throwing a CEL and is not showing any other symptoms apart from being slow its impossible to get the dealer to do anything. :stab:

edit: also, the 'slowness' was way more obvious at high speeds for me 120km/h and up...

 

Would this be a symptom? If i rev it up in nuetral, or in gear for that matter, as it rpms slow down they kinda hang at 2 spots, 1st at around 2k, then again at about 1k, before settling down to normal idle at about 800. they only hang for a bout half a second, but u can see the tach needle stop briefly at these points...

any ideas?

 

Would this be a symptom? If i rev it up in nuetral, or in gear for that matter, as it rpms slow down they kinda hang at 2 spots, 1st at around 2k, then again at about 1k, before settling down to normal idle at about 800. they only hang for a bout half a second, but u can see the tach needle stop briefly at these points...

any ideas?

it really depends on the dealer. The best way is to touch the wire going to the tps and see whether your idle flutters.

 

the worst part is that if the car isnt throwing a CEL and is not showing any other symptoms apart from being slow its impossible to get the dealer to do anything. :stab:

edit: also, the 'slowness' was way more obvious at high speeds for me 120km/h and up...

So if I go in and say "hey, my car is really slow, something is wrong. Its possible it could be the TPS, but i dont know"

You think they'll even look at it... or do you think they'll say "sure, we'll look at it" but in reality NOT look at it...

 

ill have to fix this myself as my car is no longer under warranty, and i can't afford to pay dodge a 500% markup for the parts and service.

 

So if I go in and say "hey, my car is really slow, something is wrong. Its possible it could be the TPS, but i dont know"

You think they'll even look at it... or do you think they'll say "sure, we'll look at it" but in reality NOT look at it...

I would say it depends on your dealer. The ones i know would say "well look at it" they might connect the shop computer to it, to check for any misfiring etc. but will tell you that its fine, unless there is a major issue.

I made my dealer go out with me in one of the used SRT4s in the lot to compare, and even then they said there was minimal difference.

So i say its def worth a shot if youre engine is unmodded and still under warrenty.

 

I would say it depends on your dealer. The ones i know would say "well look at it" they might connect the shop computer to it, to check for any misfiring etc. but will tell you that its fine, unless there is a major issue.

I made my dealer go out with me in one of the used SRT4s in the lot to compare, and even then they said there was minimal difference.

So i say its def worth a shot if youre engine is unmodded and still under warrenty.

Yea its un-modded right now... i get my S1 this week though so i wanna do it before i install that

 

do i reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery?

 

do i reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery?

yup. not sure if it makes a difference, but some people say leave it for a minute before reconnecting.
regardless this will make your car temporarily faster because it will be boosting higher for the first few times you drive it.

 

also, the 'slowness' was way more obvious at high speeds for me 120km/h and up...

I've noticed this in my car recently - but I have no other symptoms of a possible TPS problem. I'm almost out of regular warranty (55k) and about to enter the realm of 7/115 engine warranty...

 

I am a noob at this kind of thing but where is the TPS located exactly?

 

Yeah, my TPS was bad for a while, and NEVER threw a code. I actually discovered the problem when the BOV starting going off at 10lbs vacuum, steady throttle.

Other than that, nothing seemed wrong. Then I fixed the TPS wire - and EVERYTHING was better. It wasn't just the BOV going off. Boost spooled up faster, response was better, car was just all-around better.

So you can have TPS issues for a long time without ever getting a code. If you go to the Do It Yourself section of the forums, you'll find a really nice write up on fixing the problem yourself. And Mopar actually makes a generic fix kit - it has 6 wires (3 more than you need) of 12" length or so (far longer than you need) and the connectors.

I had to fix the TPS issue twice... first time was a homebrew kinda fix. Second one was with the correct fix kit. Haven't had a problem since... it's been like 5 months.

Good luck getting it all sorted out.

 

Yeah, my TPS was bad for a while, and NEVER threw a code. I actually discovered the problem when the BOV starting going off at 10lbs vacuum, steady throttle.

Other than that, nothing seemed wrong. Then I fixed the TPS wire - and EVERYTHING was better. It wasn't just the BOV going off. Boost spooled up faster, response was better, car was just all-around better.

So you can have TPS issues for a long time without ever getting a code. If you go to the Do It Yourself section of the forums, you'll find a really nice write up on fixing the problem yourself. And Mopar actually makes a generic fix kit - it has 6 wires (3 more than you need) of 12" length or so (far longer than you need) and the connectors.

I had to fix the TPS issue twice... first time was a homebrew kinda fix. Second one was with the correct fix kit. Haven't had a problem since... it's been like 5 months.

Good luck getting it all sorted out.

:eeeek: thats all the symtoms im having right now

 

Yeah, my TPS was bad for a while, and NEVER threw a code. I actually discovered the problem when the BOV starting going off at 10lbs vacuum, steady throttle.

Other than that, nothing seemed wrong. Then I fixed the TPS wire - and EVERYTHING was better. It wasn't just the BOV going off. Boost spooled up faster, response was better, car was just all-around better.

So you can have TPS issues for a long time without ever getting a code. If you go to the Do It Yourself section of the forums, you'll find a really nice write up on fixing the problem yourself. And Mopar actually makes a generic fix kit - it has 6 wires (3 more than you need) of 12" length or so (far longer than you need) and the connectors.

I had to fix the TPS issue twice... first time was a homebrew kinda fix. Second one was with the correct fix kit. Haven't had a problem since... it's been like 5 months.

Good luck getting it all sorted out.

link?

 

Bump!

 

here is a link
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2889087